A significant difference between a turbocharged diesel engine and a traditional naturally aspirated gasoline engine is the air entering a diesel engine is compressed before the fuel is injected. This is where the turbo charger is critical to the power output and efficiency of the diesel engine.
Better Fuel Efficiency Through a Better Oil Pump
As the market and government regulations push automakers to improve emissions and fuel consumption, they are evaluating all opportunities in the engine system to reduce losses. The oil pump is one important component that consumes engine power as it protects engine components from frictional wear and overheating by delivering oil at the correct pressures.
Understanding Oil Coolers
When engine output rises beyond a certain threshold per liter of displacement, an oil cooler becomes more important, critical even. There is a lot to the selection and installation of an oil cooler, so to find out more, we caught up with Zac Beals, a technical sales representative with Setrab USA, a Swedish company that specializes in a full range of heat exchangers and radiators for OEM applications, and oil cooling for motorsport. There are right and wrong ways to add an oil-cooling system, based on application and a number of other factors, but there are two key tenets to follow when adding an oil-cooling system: get expert help and don’t skimp on materials.
Belt driven fan clutches have been used as standard equipment on many vehicles for decades. However, the automotive clutch market is diminishing as other more efficient options are hitting the market and being demanded by consumers. Fan Clutches are ‘fluid’ coupling devices that provide air flow through the radiator by using the water pump shaft to power the fan blade. When the pump is cool or at normal operating temperature, the fan clutch will partially disengage. However, due to only partially disengaging they will always be spinning at about 30% of the water pump speed at all times. When compared to an electric fan, fan clutches are quite inefficient.
In simple terms, the cylinder head is just a casting that tops off the engine block, holds the valves and forms the combustion chambers. Working in combination with the camshaft(s), induction and exhaust systems, the head determines how the engine breathes, the engine’s power curve and personality. The “right” cylinder head will deliver peak power in the preferred rpm range, providing good throttle response and producing the kind of torque and horsepower numbers your customers demand.
Using the wrong head can ruin your reputation.
Some people pick a set of cylinder heads based on previous experience, reputation or simply brand recognition. Some look for highest airflow claims while others take the price path. The best selection process, of course, is rarely so simple.
The core of the engine is the cylinder, with the piston moving up and down inside the cylinder. Single cylinder engines are typical of most lawn mowers, but usually cars have more than one cylinder (four, six and eight cylinders are common). In a multi-cylinder engine, the cylinders usually are arranged in one of three ways: inline, V or flat (also known as horizontally opposed or boxer), as shown in the figures to the left.
So that inline four we mentioned at the beginning is an engine with four cylinders arranged in a line. Different configurations have different advantages and disadvantages in terms of smoothness, manufacturing cost and shape characteristics. These advantages and disadvantages make them more suitable for certain vehicles.
Let's look at some key engine parts in more detail.
The brake booster is a device used to amplify the force applied on the brake pedal when transferring that force to the brake master cylinder. Brake systems that have them are often called “power brakes.”
The brake booster is used on almost all cars with hydraulic brakes — you won’t see them on vehicles that use pressurized air systems as their primary brake circuits.
BRAKE ROTORS/BRAKE DISCS
What they are: Sometimes called brake rotors, sometimes called discs, this brake part is one of the main components of disc brakes. When brake pads press against the disc/rotor on each side, it causes the system to slow down or stop.
How long they last: As with all brake parts, it can vary, but brake rotors/discs tend to last anywhere from 30,000 to 70,000 miles. You can also extend their life with brake resurfacing. They should be inspected every 12,000 miles, however.
When to replace: The surface is where this brake part wears down. Over time, grooves or ridges can develop where the brake pads press down on them. If the brake pads can't maintain an even contact surface, you may experience grinding, meaning it's time to resurface or replace the rotors or discs. It's recommended to replace brake rotors/discs in pairs.
Excessive Steering Play / Loose Steering
If your steering rack and pinion wear out, the steering will feel loose. You will also notice that the car wanders at high speed, and it is hard to keep it in the lane.
Also, every road imperfection causes your car to easily move left to the right instead of staying in a straight line.